|
|
|
oOo oOo oOo oOo oOo oOo oOo oOo oOo oOo oOo Please read oOo oOo oOo
|
DIY - Spreading & suspension bars Two versatile bondage instruments are the so-called spread- and/or suspension bars. They can be manufactured from wood, steel or synthetic material. There are bars for decorating, practical bars and bars that combine both properties. A bar should be one thing in all cases - safe. Anyone who is a bit practised in handcraft, can make make wooden bars themselves. The wooden ones have the advantage that they can be made easily and you do not need a lot of expensive tools. As already stated, there are two main types: 1. Bars that are used only as spreading bars, which require only relatively simple security measures. 2. Bars that should also be suitable for hanging. Those bars have meet the highest security and safety requirements, regarding the material and construction. Who wants to justify oneself for the public prosecutor, when serious consequences proceed from play, not to mention from the damage caused by negligence. Simple spreading bars Take a cylinder shaped piece of wood (dowel is the correct name AKA a broom handle), diameter 22-28 mm, it can simply be spruce, pine or if you have the money beech is a nice wood. A few ring hooks with screw threads suitable for wood, a saw and drill/drill bits and one can begin. A lot of people will now think ''drill?'', but it is important to use one, because the thin cross section wood can split very easily, when you try to screw in a hook or a screw eye. If the wood does not get cracked immediately, it will crack later on which may damage your skin or other equipment. The main method of construction is simply to
pre-bore the dowel with a drill bit that is one millimetre smaller than the
screw that you
Screw eyes with wood screw threads should never be screwed into the side of the dowel. You never know who will ever lay his/her hands on the bar, and that person might think the bar is suitable for suspension from the position of the eyes.
In you do really want to insert the screws across the dowel, only use screw eyes that have a machine-screw thread and use a nut to secure them.The nuts should be self-locking. These nuts can be recognized by a plastic lining around the screw thread of the nut made of plastic. If these nuts are not available use a few drops of Lock-Tite if you have some. I understand Lock-Tite is being replaced by a product called Epo-Grip which is easily available in the UK from places like Halford's and car accessory shops. Thoroughly sandpaper (glasspaper) the dowel before final assembly with a fine/medium grade paper. Give it a coat of wood grain sealer and two or three coats of varnish. Paint can be used and after final assembly you will have a fine toy to play with. Take a few carbine hooks, chains or ropes and soon your imagination is limitless. Spreading & hanging bars As already mentioned, safety is extremely important if you are going to use any toy for suspension. Always, always overload your toys as part of a controlled test before using them for real. You should use straight grained, knot free pine dowel at least, beech is even better. Screw eyes with wood threads should not be used. You are possible going to need a hack saw here to cut the bolts to length if you can not buy them of the correct length. Because machine-screw threads do not have enough
grip in the wood and might fall out, metal insert plugs are used for the end of
the bars. These have a special screw thread suitable for wood on the outside and
second machine screw thread inside, into which the screw eye 'bolt' can be
inserted. Drill the hole in the end of the dowel to the size as stated in
the instructions for the plugs. It is important for a correct fit that this
measurement is as recommended. make sure you drill deep enough to accommodate
the length of the screw eye (bolt) and then add 3-4 mm to allow for the bolt to
extend into and out of the plug if needed. Give the hole for the plug a 'wipe'
of glue and inset the threaded plug and then the screw eye bolt. When this
is done right using a 28mm dowel, the anchor point is able to stand up to many
kilograms of pull.
For practical purposes anchors that are fixed across the dowel are best. Structurally they are much stronger and will normally take load until the wood of the bar breaks. A dowel of 28mm dia has considerable strength depending on the type of wood that is used. (Far left) A coach bolt and eye - nice looking. (right) A simple screw eye with a lock nut on the opposite side. (Centre) a double-sided anchor, which offers more possibilities and good stress and loading capabilities. This can be purchased as a component or more often made from two ring bolts. Remove the bolt from one ring using pliers and threat the ring in to a complete ring bolt. Tighten gently and measure the gap between the faces of the two rings. Measure dowel and add 2mm. Unscrew one ring, measure the bolt and cut it accordingly to length with a hack saw. Remove the remaining ring and put a dab of Lock-Tite on the thread. Re assemble. Push the bolt through the dowel in you preprepared hole and dust the thread. Put a dab of Lock-Tite on the thread the other end and screw the eye onto the thread. If you have measured/cut correctly you should now be able to tighten the two eyes so the threads are fully inside the eye and just starting to crust the timer. A little work but you get an individual, safe and universal bondage toy for life. Oh and its cheap - Cool!
|
Send mail to matron@theoriginalinstitute.com with questions or comments about this web site.
Copyright © 2001
The Institute
|
are
going to screw into the wood. This should prevent the wood from splitting when
you screw into it (no don't be rude!). When you drill the hole make sure it is
square to the surface do it very precisely. Aim to drill the wood to a depth the
same as the screw thread plus about 2/3rd of the length of the neck of the
screw. This should give you the best fastening. If drilling into the end
of the dowel (end grain) putting a little glue put into the hole you have
drilled can be an advantage. Depending on the hardness of the wood the
glue helps lock the wood fibres around the screw which may otherwise pull out.
