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DIY Clothes Pegs
Wood versus Plastic clothes pegs
Wooden clothes pegs are a bit kinder, and have less tendency to abrade,
so I'd suggest starting with them. Plastic clothes pegs tend to have
much smaller ribbed gripping surfaces, and a 'feel' much stronger than
the equivalent wooden ones. Extremely small plastic clothes pegs are
very nasty indeed, and many may be used in the same area for greater
intensity. But here's the kind of clothespin we're going to be talking
about in this article...
Wooden clothes pegs are available in several qualities, with the older,
thicker ones being a bit better in my opinion (the thin ones seem to be
more likely to splinter or have sharp edges). Since you can purchase
fifty of these for a few dollars, these rank among the least expensive
of toys, and among the most versatile. Almost anything you can do with
fingertip squeezing can be done with clothes pegs, and several things
that can't be accomplished with your fingers can easily be done with
these tiny household beauties. Plus, of course, they leave your hands
free for other activities.
Clamping Pressure
Unmodified, most wooden clothes pegs grip with between four and six
pounds of pressure over an area of about one-quarter by one-half inch.
This is too much for some, and not enough for others. The grip can be
increased by wrapping the clamping end with elastic bands, and decreased
in several ways. The simplest is by weakening the springs by clamping
something that requires the clothespin to be open to its limit for
several days. This will reduce the clamping pressure by several pounds,
dependent on the initial strength of the spring, the width of the
opening, and the length of time one allows for stretching. Carefully
pulling the jaws wider than they would normally travel will stretch the
spring quickly, but this is harder to control. Wrapping elastic bands
around the legs of the clothespin will resist the tension of the spring
and weaken the clamping force without permanently weakening the spring.
If you're willing to spend a bit more time, drill straight through both
legs of each clothespin, about one-third of the way from the end, and
thread a bolt through the holes. Tightening a wing nut on the bolt will
allow for wonderfully precise changes in clamping pressure, since the
bolt-nut combination adjustably limits the travel of the legs. You can
drill a larger hole or even a slot in one leg for ease of adjustment.
This requires perhaps 2 minutes per clothespin and is well worth the
time, as the pressure may be slowly increased as your partner's ability
to enjoy the sensation improves. Weights may be hung off of the
clothespin by hooks or cords attached to the holes and hardware.
Some Standard Techniques
One classical place to begin with clothes pegs is the nipple, but there
are many possible variations to this alone. The first grip recommended
most often is with the clothespin pointing straight onto the nipple, not
from the side, gripping the base of the nipple, not the tip, and perhaps
a bit of areola as well. This does not have the same sort of 'bite' as
grasping the nipple alone may, and often does wonderful things for
sensitivity without causing severe pain. It's often good to start with a
rather weak clamping pressure and work upwards. And if you're just
beginning, try not to leave the pins on for too long. Start with what
your partner can endure, and eventually work up to perhaps twenty
minutes (I prefer not to leave them on longer than this, YMMV). The
longer the clamping time, the more fierce the sensation caused by
removing the pressure. The increased sensitivity afterwards may last
from minutes to many hours, depending on the person, the clamping force
and time. Several things might be done in this period to use that
sensitivity to advantage (beating with the proverbial 'wet noodle' or
even a feather duster is quite effective). Ice applied immediately after
removing the clothespin may reduce the length and severity of the
sensation if that's what's desired.
You can also the clothespin on sideways, with the nipple centred in the
the hole in the clamping area. If you do this far enough back on the
nipple base or areola, the tip of a large nipple will remain exposed for
other things, such as ice, nibbling, or smaller clips and clamps.
You can clamp the nipple only, or work gradually out from the areola as
your partner's ability to enjoy more increases. Tapping or lightly
brushing the tips of attached clothes pegs is effective, and a light
vibrator may also be used if held against or even taped to the legs of
the clothespin.
One simple device works nicely for both nipples at once on all but the
smallest female breasts. Take two clothes pegs and glue the outsides of
the legs together with a slight overlap like so...
....then use the clamping ends to grasp both nipples from the sides at
once. The pull will vary depending on breast size, but some will be
present. Causing your partner to jiggle their breasts gently can be fun,
and of course, this is often just the thing to add to tickling. Size
differences may require an additional short piece of wood to link the
pair together (length best found by experiment).
Pulling off a clothespin is more painful than squeezing the legs to
remove it gently, and this is the basis for some devices we'll mention
below. Again, the longer one leaves them attached, the stronger the
result. It's also possible to flick off clothes pegs with a flogger or
some other striking device, and combining the two is an interesting way
to add some bright 'explosions' to the sensations of a 'standard'
flogging without switching instruments or striking harder. When doing
this near the front of the body, some form of eye protection is needed,
a heavy blindfold will serve nicely.
Other body parts worth clamping
Many areas of the body might do well with a bit of clamping either for
sensation or visual appeal. Other parts of the breast, and any portion
of the torso and limbs where you can gather a bit of skin come
immediately to mind. In view of the tiny expense, you could use many
dozens at one time on someone.
Specific classic variations include but are not limited to:
- a row, circle (or other sigil of your choice) on the belly or back
- one or more on the labia and surrounding areas
- the inner thigh or arm
- a belt of clothes pegs round the waist
- small clothes pegs on the webbing of fingers and toes
- the earlobe (the dangling legs of the clothspin brush the neck
nicely)
- behind the knees and inside the elbows
- a circle round the thighs as a reminder to keep them spread
'Zippers' and other tailoring
Drill a hole through one leg of at least one dozen clothes pegs, thread
them on a thong or cord, knotting them at small intervals, and you have
created a zipper. One derivation for the name will become obvious the
first time one tugs swiftly on one end of the cord and hears the sound
made by the pins pulling off sensitive skin (there may be other sounds
as well). The spacing may vary, longer ones may be made, and double rows
of 20 or so clothes pegs are common. The inside of the upper arm or
thigh are rather traditional for these, but most areas of the body are
available, one of my own favorites being the side of the body normally
covered by the arms, after binding the arms over the head. Ticklish and
sensitive.
A 'tri-zipper' is my own name for three of these single zippers with one
end of each fastened to a central ring (a keyring will do, but try to
find something a bit larger). The ring is centered high on the belly,
with the farthest pins attaching to the nipples and labia, perhaps with
a bit of spiral towards the centre of each region, and the nearest ones
fastening to the skin near the center. The look of horrified
anticipation as you grasp the ring and begin to pull slowly outwards,
each pin popping off in turn as the three zipper lines move towards the
most sensitive areas is not to be missed, while pulling faster often
causes volumes of high-pitched shrieking.
Another design I haven't seen elsewhere I've dubbed the "Reverse Garter"
(reverse in the sense of pulling down rather than up). Two bands of
non-stretch material (webbing, fabric or leather will do) with buckles
or other adjustable fasteners are put high up around each thigh, perhaps
five inches from the pubis, although this dimension will vary. Sewn or
riveted onto the band is a close (almost touching) row of four clothes
pegs on the inside of the leg, with the clamping ends pointing upwards.
These are first attached to the outer labia, then the band is adjusted
to a position to gently stretch the lips and tightened so as not to be
pulled further up the thigh. Intriguing in itself, and provides both
more pull and an interesting display when she spreads her legs.
Delectable. (N.B. There are major sensation differences between the
outer lips and the inner lips and tissues, grasping these areas with the
same force is likely to cause considerably more pain than anticipated.)
Modifying pins for more intense
sensations
The simplest method is increasing the clamping force with one or more
elastic bands round the clamping end, but there are several others.
Purchase some short one-eighth inch diameter brads or finish nails, and
a drill of the same diameter. Drill three holes through the clamping end
of two clothes pegs. Sand, grind, or file the ends of the brads to a
smooth *ROUND* tip then push them through so they protrude into the
clamping area while the clothespin is held open one-eighth inch. Use a
drop of strong glue to hold the brads in place, and saw off the excess
length from the outside of the pins after the glue dries.
These are exceedingly nasty, as the clamping force now concentrates
primarily on three small areas rather than the entire clamping area. Use
this carefully, preferably with a fully adjustable clothespin as
described above, and make quite sure by testing on yourself first that
the ends of the brads are NOT SHARP at all to avoid damage. Useful for
those seeking more than a 'regular' clothespin may provide.
Several less extreme variations on the idea above are possible, all
based on disassembling the clothespin, filing several grooves in the
wooden clamping area, then reassembling the clothespin. Grooves and
blunt 'teeth' aid in preventing slippage, and feel a bit more harsh than
flat wood.
Removing about one-half of the side of the clamping area with a saw or
rasp provides two benefits, the same clamping pressure will be applied
over a smaller area, and double the number of clothespin tips may fitted
to the same bit of anatomy. Remember to round the edges slightly with
sandpaper to avoid splinters or other inadvertent injury.
Testing the clamping force of clothes
pegs
Tradition demands testing on the web of your hand. This is well and good
for impromptu buying and to get a subjective feel for the actual
sensation of a new design, but lacks precision and repeatability,
qualities dear to the heart of any engineer. Some thinking and a bit of
experimentation resulted in the following frame to directly and
accurately measure clamping force in clothes pegs. (I recognize the
source of error from measuring the force at the hole rather than the
clamping area, but it is a difference both trivial and consistent, and
thus may be ignored for comparative testing.)
Select two boards longer than eight inches, wider than one inch, and
perhaps one-quarter inch thick, and place them together, lying flat on
top of one another. Drill a hole through both boards, five inches or so
from one end. Put a bolt through this hole, and thread a wing nut on the
bolt. Clamp the other end of the boards firmly to a table or bench,
slide one leg of the clothespin into the space between the two boards,
then tighten the wing nut. This frame will hold the clothespin for
testing. Once the pin is held firmly in place, use a thin cord attached
to a spring tension scale, and pull downwards against the clamping area
until the clothespin opens. (I use an 'anglers scale' accurate from 1 to
28 pounds, but any 'pulling' scale with a hook will do.) This
measurement will vary from the pull necessary to just open the jaws to a
higher reading before the jaws reach their limit of travel. As
mentioned, the 'standard' clothes pegs I've tested fall somewhere in the
region of four to six pounds. Stretching for several days may yield less
than 3 pounds, and manual stretching of the clothespin spring will
swiftly reduce the pressure to 1 pounds or less. If you have the time
and interest, coding the various strength ranges of tested clothes pegs
for different tastes and applications is possible, either by filing
groove patterns in the legs to select by touch or by using colour to
indicate severity levels.
|
|
DIY clothes pegs
Wood versus Plastic clothes pegs
Wooden clothes pegs are a bit kinder, and have less tendency to abrade,
so I'd suggest starting with them. Plastic clothes pegs tend to have
much smaller ribbed gripping surfaces, and a 'feel' much stronger than
the equivalent wooden ones. Extremely small plastic clothes pegs are
very nasty indeed, and many may be used in the same area for greater
intensity. But here's the kind of clothespin we're going to be talking
about in this article...
Wooden clothes pegs are available in several qualities, with the older,
thicker ones being a bit better in my opinion (the thin ones seem to be
more likely to splinter or have sharp edges). Since you can purchase
fifty of these for a few dollars, these rank among the least expensive
of toys, and among the most versatile. Almost anything you can do with
fingertip squeezing can be done with clothes pegs, and several things
that can't be accomplished with your fingers can easily be done with
these tiny household beauties. Plus, of course, they leave your hands
free for other activities.
Clamping Pressure
Unmodified, most wooden clothes pegs grip with between four and six
pounds of pressure over an area of about one-quarter by one-half inch.
This is too much for some, and not enough for others. The grip can be
increased by wrapping the clamping end with elastic bands, and decreased
in several ways. The simplest is by weakening the springs by clamping
something that requires the clothespin to be open to its limit for
several days. This will reduce the clamping pressure by several pounds,
dependent on the initial strength of the spring, the width of the
opening, and the length of time one allows for stretching. Carefully
pulling the jaws wider than they would normally travel will stretch the
spring quickly, but this is harder to control. Wrapping elastic bands
around the legs of the clothespin will resist the tension of the spring
and weaken the clamping force without permanently weakening the spring.
If you're willing to spend a bit more time, drill straight through both
legs of each clothespin, about one-third of the way from the end, and
thread a bolt through the holes. Tightening a wing nut on the bolt will
allow for wonderfully precise changes in clamping pressure, since the
bolt-nut combination adjustably limits the travel of the legs. You can
drill a larger hole or even a slot in one leg for ease of adjustment.
This requires perhaps 2 minutes per clothespin and is well worth the
time, as the pressure may be slowly increased as your partner's ability
to enjoy the sensation improves. Weights may be hung off of the
clothespin by hooks or cords attached to the holes and hardware.
Some Standard Techniques
One classical place to begin with clothes pegs is the nipple, but there
are many possible variations to this alone. The first grip recommended
most often is with the clothespin pointing straight onto the nipple, not
from the side, gripping the base of the nipple, not the tip, and perhaps
a bit of areola as well. This does not have the same sort of 'bite' as
grasping the nipple alone may, and often does wonderful things for
sensitivity without causing severe pain. It's often good to start with a
rather weak clamping pressure and work upwards. And if you're just
beginning, try not to leave the pins on for too long. Start with what
your partner can endure, and eventually work up to perhaps twenty
minutes (I prefer not to leave them on longer than this, YMMV). The
longer the clamping time, the more fierce the sensation caused by
removing the pressure. The increased sensitivity afterwards may last
from minutes to many hours, depending on the person, the clamping force
and time. Several things might be done in this period to use that
sensitivity to advantage (beating with the proverbial 'wet noodle' or
even a featherduster is quite effective). Ice applied immediately after
removing the clothespin may reduce the length and severity of the
sensation if that's what's desired.
You can also the clothespin on sideways, with the nipple centered in the
the hole in the clamping area. If you do this far enough back on the
nipple base or areola, the tip of a large nipple will remain exposed for
other things, such as ice, nibbling, or smaller clips and clamps.
You can clamp the nipple only, or work gradually out from the areola as
your partner's ability to enjoy more increases. Tapping or lightly
brushing the tips of attached clothes pegs is effective, and a light
vibrator may also be used if held against or even taped to the legs of
the clothespin.
One simple device works nicely for both nipples at once on all but the
smallest female breasts. Take two clothes pegs and glue the outsides of
the legs together with a slight overlap like so...
....then use the clamping ends to grasp both nipples from the sides at
once. The pull will vary depending on breast size, but some will be
present. Causing your partner to jiggle their breasts gently can be fun,
and of course, this is often just the thing to add to tickling. Size
differences may require an additional short piece of wood to link the
pair together (length best found by experiment).
Pulling off a clothespin is more painful than squeezing the legs to
remove it gently, and this is the basis for some devices we'll mention
below. Again, the longer one leaves them attached, the stronger the
result. It's also possible to flick off clothes pegs with a flogger or
some other striking device, and combining the two is an interesting way
to add some bright 'explosions' to the sensations of a 'standard'
flogging without switching instruments or striking harder. When doing
this near the front of the body, some form of eye protection is needed,
a heavy blindfold will serve nicely.
Other body parts worth clamping
Many areas of the body might do well with a bit of clamping either for
sensation or visual appeal. Other parts of the breast, and any portion
of the torso and limbs where you can gather a bit of skin come
immediately to mind. In view of the tiny expense, you cound use many
dozens at one time on someone.
Specific classic variations include but are not limited to:
- a row, circle (or other sigil of your choice) on the belly or back
- one or more on the labia and surrounding areas
- the inner thigh or arm
- a belt of clothes pegs round the waist
- small clothes pegs on the webbing of fingers and toes
- the earlobe (the dangling legs of the clothspin brush the neck
nicely)
- behind the knees and inside the elbows
- a circle round the thighs as a reminder to keep them spread
'Zippers' and other tailoring
Drill a hole through one leg of at least one dozen clothes pegs, thread
them on a thong or cord, knotting them at small intervals, and you have
created a zipper. One derivation for the name will become obvious the
first time one tugs swiftly on one end of the cord and hears the sound
made by the pins pulling off sensitive skin (there may be other sounds
as well). The spacing may vary, longer ones may be made, and double rows
of 20 or so clothes pegs are common. The inside of the upper arm or
thigh are rather traditional for these, but most areas of the body are
available, one of my own favorites being the side of the body normally
covered by the arms, after binding the arms over the head. Ticklish and
sensitive.
A 'tri-zipper' is my own name for three of these single zippers with one
end of each fastened to a central ring (a key ring will do, but try to
find something a bit larger). The ring is centred high on the belly,
with the farthest pins attaching to the nipples and labia, perhaps with
a bit of spiral towards the centre of each region, and the nearest ones
fastening to the skin near the centre. The look of horrified
anticipation as you grasp the ring and begin to pull slowly outwards,
each pin popping off in turn as the three zipper lines move towards the
most sensitive areas is not to be missed, while pulling faster often
causes volumes of high-pitched shrieking.
Another design I haven't seen elsewhere I've dubbed the "Reverse Garter"
(reverse in the sense of pulling down rather than up). Two bands of
non-stretch material (webbing, fabric or leather will do) with buckles
or other adjustable fasteners are put high up around each thigh, perhaps
five inches from the pubis, although this dimension will vary. Sewn or
riveted onto the band is a close (almost touching) row of four clothes
pegs on the inside of the leg, with the clamping ends pointing upwards.
These are first attached to the outer labia, then the band is adjusted
to a position to gently stretch the lips and tightened so as not to be
pulled further up the thigh. Intriguing in itself, and provides both
more pull and an interesting display when she spreads her legs.
Delectable. (N.B. There are major sensation differences between the
outer lips and the inner lips and tissues, grasping these areas with the
same force is likely to cause considerably more pain than anticipated.)
Modifying pins for more intense sensations
The simplest method is increasing the clamping force with one or more
elastic bands round the clamping end, but there are several others.
Purchase some short one-eighth inch diameter brads or finish nails, and
a drill of the same diameter. Drill three holes through the clamping end
of two clothes pegs. Sand, grind, or file the ends of the brads to a
smooth *ROUND* tip then push them through so they protrude into the
clamping area while the clothespin is held open one-eighth inch. Use a
drop of strong glue to hold the brads in place, and saw off the excess
length from the outside of the pins after the glue dries.
These are exceedingly nasty, as the clamping force now concentrates
primarily on three small areas rather than the entire clamping area. Use
this carefully, preferably with a fully adjustable clothespin as
described above, and make quite sure by testing on yourself first that
the ends of the brads are NOT SHARP at all to avoid damage. Useful for
those seeking more than a 'regular' clothespin may provide.
Several less extreme variations on the idea above are possible, all
based on disassembling the clothespin, filing several grooves in the
wooden clamping area, then reassembling the clothespin. Grooves and
blunt 'teeth' aid in preventing slippage, and feel a bit more harsh than
flat wood.
Removing about one-half of the side of the clamping area with a saw or
rasp provides two benefits, the same clamping pressure will be applied
over a smaller area, and double the number of clothespin tips may fitted
to the same bit of anatomy. Remember to round the edges slightly with
sandpaper to avoid splinters or other inadvertent injury.
Testing the clamping force of clothes
pegs
Tradition demands testing on the web of your hand. This is well and good
for impromptu buying and to get a subjective feel for the actual
sensation of a new design, but lacks precision and repeatability,
qualities dear to the heart of any engineer. Some thinking and a bit of
experimentation resulted in the following frame to directly and
accurately measure clamping force in clothes pegs. (I recognize the
source of error from measuring the force at the hole rather than the
clamping area, but it is a difference both trivial and consistent, and
thus may be ignored for comparative testing.)
Select two boards longer than eight inches, wider than one inch, and
perhaps one-quarter inch thick, and place them together, lying flat on
top of one another. Drill a hole through both boards, five inches or so
from one end. Put a bolt through this hole, and thread a wing nut on the
bolt. Clamp the other end of the boards firmly to a table or bench,
slide one leg of the clothespin into the space between the two boards,
then tighten the wing nut. This frame will hold the clothespin for
testing. Once the pin is held firmly in place, use a thin cord attached
to a spring tension scale, and pull downwards against the clamping area
until the clothespin opens. (I use an 'anglers scale' accurate from 1 to
28 pounds, but any 'pulling' scale with a hook will do.) This
measurement will vary from the pull necessary to just open the jaws to a
higher reading before the jaws reach their limit of travel. As
mentioned, the 'standard' clothes pegs I've tested fall somewhere in the
region of four to six pounds. Stretching for several days may yield less
than 3 pounds, and manual stretching of the clothespin spring will
swiftly reduce the pressure to 1 pounds or less. If you have the time
and interest, coding the various strength ranges of tested clothes pegs
for different tastes and applications is possible, either by filing
groove patterns in the legs to select by touch or by using colour to
indicate severity levels.
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